Cantina Delsignore is one of the historic producers in the Gattinara appellation. We came to know Stefano Dorelli, the winery's owner, through our friends Marco and Giancarlo Petterino. In the past years, Stefano has helped the Petterino brothers with administrative tasks, as they never grew accustomed to using email. After conversing with him for many years, knowing he made wine, we asked him for samples - and they more than delivered!
The roots of the Cantina Delsignore estate date back to Stefano’s grandfather, Attilio Delsignore. Attilio had vineyards in Gattinara and then married Elsa Nervi of the Nervi family. As with many marriages, theirs brought a union of their landholdings including the key parcels in Valferana and Permolone. Bottles can still be found of the 1961 and '62 Gattinara under the label of Nervi-Delsignore. Sadly, Attilio had a stroke in 1981, after which, he wasn't able to be self-sufficient. He lived for seven more years before passing away in 1988. His children, including Stefano's mother, were not interested in continuing the winery and decided to sell a large part of the vineyards though, luckily, keeping the important crus of Permolone, Lurga, and Palo di Ferro. These remaining vineyards totaled just over one hectare. Stefano's father began to work the remaining vineyards. He learned from the older local winemakers.
When Stefano returned to the winery in 2009, there were still many vintages in cask that had never been bottled. He began to sell those as he started making his own wine, learning from his father. He worked with a consulting enologist until 2017 after which point he handled the winemaking by himself. He was able to purchase another 1 one and a half hectares, which brought the winery's holdings to a total of 3.3 hectares.
The focus of their production is on two Gattinara bottlings – a Riserva called Borgofranco, a non-riserva Gattinara called Il Putto, and a Costa della Sesia bottling called La Crotta. The La Crotta is also 100% Nebbiolo and essentially de-classified Gattinara, though it is lower in alcohol and not aged for long enough to be officially labeled as such. In addition to the reds, they make minuscule amounts of Erbaluce Bianco and a Nebbiolo-based Rosato.
The winemaking here is strictly traditional. Macerations are fairly long, and the Gattinaras are all aged in older, used Botti. The Costa della Sesia, by contrast, is aged in slightly smaller, neutral oak casks. These are classic, dense, chewy Nebbiolo which show the beautiful savory aromatics and flavors of the Alto Piemonte, dried cherries, wild mountain herbs, licorice, and sandalwood. While drinkable on release, these wines have the requisite structure to reward cellaring in the medium to long term.