Leon, Spain

At a Glance
  • Albarin is the white variety and it has no relationship to Albarino.
  • Prieto Picudo is the red variety and it is related to the Portuguese variety Alfrochiero
  • The single parcel reds see extended elevage in large format wood under flor.  The flor allows the long aging in wood without the need for added SO2.

In 1995, Eugenio Gonzalez and Raul Perez began a journey together to learn more about Prieto Picudo and Albarin and how to make wines from these grapes in Leon. After about 10 years of experimentation, they began to build Bodegas Margon in 2006. In 2006 and 2007 they purchased a total of 75 plots in a total of 19 hectares of vineyards with vines aged from 90 to over 100 years of age in the area of Pajares de los Oteros south and west of Leon city.

The soils here are clay based and in some areas there is more sand or some limestone. The two varieties they focus on are Albarin a white variety and Prieto Picudo a red variety. Albarin is very typically confused with the similar sounding and famous variety albarino but it is its own variety. To us the resulting wines from Albarin have a very Chenin Blanc leaning characteristic. Prieto Picudo is a red variety that is the same as Alfrocheiro found in Portugal – mostly the Dao but also a bit in Alentejo – and is also the same as Baboso Negro found throughout the Canary Islands. The variety is often confused with Trousseau or (Bastardo in Spain) and while it is genetically a very close relative it is considered a separate variety. This variety in Leon lends itself to be richly colored but having aromatics and flavors of bright blackberries and strawberries with great lift and energy from its natural fairly acidic spine.

Raul and the team work the vineyards very responsibly – practicing organics and a viticulture style that maintains the local traditions of very low bush pruning techniques. In the winery too, Raul works with native yeasts, no to low sulphur and large old wood. Many of the reds see long aging in wood and, somewhat uniquely, in the cases of the single parcel wines, long aging under flor. This process he feels helps to refine the acids and tannins to produce wines of great complexity and elegance.

The range begins with the Albarin which is aged in large wood vats for 9+ months without malo. It displays Chenin Blancish notes of slightly green apple and pear with bright acids and drive. Next is the entry level Prieto Picudo named Primeur which is fresh, bright and easy drinking. Finally, there are three single parcel wines made from amazing ancient parcels of Prieto Picudo and aged under flor – Paraje del Santo, Valdemuz, and Finca la Milano. These are super complex and age-worthy, not to mention truly unique expressions of this wonderful indigenous varietal.